Lunch in Nancy...the good, the bad!

We begin by our usual walk perusing menus (no "this is the dish" photos), clientele (look for locals) and setups (neat, clean & chef not smoking out front!).

We choose La Gentilhommiere because menu is not too big, plus our favorite dishes are offered.  For him, it is Tete de Veau, and for me, it is Ris de Veau.

Our local aperitif arrives...Grés Rosé..with puff pastry twists & olives.  Simple, but a perfect start

My Ris de Veau with capers, brunoise vegetables and croutons was probably the BEST I have ever had. I have never thought of the caper/lemon juice finish for sweetbreads.  Work beautifully on these perfectly cooked sweetbreads.......Thennnnnn

Let's talk about the Tete de Veau....wrong wrong wrong.  I knew it as soon as they set it on the table.  And though he shared his comments only with me....here are just a few.  It was steamed when it should have been cooked for several hours with vegetables and seasoning...court bouillon....so no juice/sauce on plate...now check out those raw onion rings on the plate...& finally the sauce gribiche did not even come close....So, let's move to dessert...

My favorite French dessert, Iles Flottante.  Perfect Creme Anglaise with flecks of vanilla bean, tender meringue and delicious caramel (though I would have liked more).  Plus it was not stuffed in a parfait glass like so many restaurants are doing. Thennnnn.....

Here comes his Mirabelle Creme Brûlée....What's with the ICE CREAM....Heaven forbid!! Anyway, the creme brûlée was delicious by itself but the cherry ice cream totally hid the flavor of the mirabelle.  Don't think I have ever seen ice cream on crunchy creme brûlée


Bottom line....I loved and thoroughly enjoyed this restaurant and was dying to go back. I tried all during the 2 weeks we were there...to no avail.

But, I have to snicker about it.....for once, he was the chef who ordered wrong.....but who knew.

The CAMARGUE and SETE....

There is nothing like a French Road Trip.....especially when you don't know where you are going to end up......having absolutely no plans. Well, this is where we were. We started out on very familiar road where we have taken many a group but quickly after a couple of hours, we were in the back country of southern France. We traveled on our whims....saw a sign....interested...ok.....wanna go there....yeh.......and we were off. First? I saw the sign for Salin de Giraud and immediately knew that I needed to see SALT! OK. Quick exit and we were on our way.

THERE!  Looming in front of us was salt, salt, salt.

Trucks moving in all directions.....

and then there is a conveyer belt moving the salt from one side of the road to the other ......What happens when it rains?????  X says the salt is very coarse and it just washes/cleans it.....looks like to me that it would melt!

Seems a bit primitive.....it is a huge operation so I don't think I call it artisanal.....This operation would never fly in the US of A!

But thank goodness, I have my salt....the Fleur de Sel AND the Sel de Gris......I guess you could call me a salt snob.....

 

NEXT??? We passed field after field (should it be paddy after paddy) of rice. Harvest had already taken place so we saw the 'rice straw' and then lots of smoke where they were burning the field of rice straw.

Yes, we were in the Camargue.......

 Home of the 'Original Cowboy'

and where 'les taureaux' rule....the bulls are raised for meat as well as for the bull fights. Then there are also flamingos, wild horses, and, in some seasons, lots of mosquitoes.

You can't come to the Camargue without going to.....

...the story is that the three biblical Marys (Maries) arrived here from Palestine along with Sara, who became the patron saint of the gypsies.  And since medieval times, Saintes Maries de la Mer is the site of an annual  Roma (gypsy) pilgrimage.

Houses of the Camargue use a local resource.....the canes that are everywhere are the roofing material for their homes. Note the leaning cross at the peak of the roof. It is on all the houses.

Then it is a quick stop in ...

Aigues Mortes....

a walled village dating to 10th century AD and also a safe haven for Protestants in the 16th century.

The day is winding down and we make our way along the coast to

 Sete
'the little Venice of the Languedoc"

Canals and fishing boats abound.....though it is one of the major fishing ports of France, it has kept its local character and quaintness.

Sun is setting...time for an aperitif.....

Picturesque spot!......fishing boats coming in with their catch.....

Now time to make a restaurant choice....we do our usual walk...peeking in and out of places...looking at posted menus....then we narrow it down.....not surprisingly, we both thought there were 2 choices.  One seemed to be a husband and wife team...not too big a menu.  But, the other, had lots of fresh seafood for sale (which had obviously just come off the boats) plus the restaurant..........a crowd was also gathering for dinner.... Chez Francois it will be...

I started with 'jols', a tiny fish done 'friture' style.  It is one of my favorite things.  Xavier had the 'couteux' (razor clams).  Both outstanding!

  As if that was not enough, we move on to the entree....
whole fish for X, and a combo of gambas (large shrimp), seche (kinda like calamari) and lotte (monkfish) for MJ.

Could not begin to finish.....would kill for it today....so perfectly grilled.

Up early the next morning......stay tuned for Part 2.....the Aubrac!

L'Estagnol et Domaines Ott

Beautiful June day on the coast....the weather, the restaurant, the winery.....click on the slideshow above to see the story. I drool over the langoustes.....