Bûche de Noël

I adore this showy Christmas dessert.  Most people pass it by thinking that it is too much trouble, but break it down into its parts and it is really not that hard.  BUT you do have to have a plan.   Making it all in one day would be daunting, whereas doing it over time makes it fun and rewarding... It is sure to put you in the Christmas spirit!

Day 1:  Make the cake.

Cake:

6 EGG YOLKS

½ CUP POWDERED SUGAR, sifted

1 TSP. VANILLA

6 TBS. COCOA, sifted

1/8 TSP. SALT

6 EGG WHITES

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.  Butter a 10x15 jelly roll pan.  Line with parchment. Butter and lightly flour the parchment. Using an electric mixer, beat egg yolks until light.  Add sugar gradually and beat until very creamy.  Blend in vanilla, the cocoa and salt.  Set aside.

In a clean bowl, beat egg whites until stiff but not dry.  Fold into cocoa mixture. Spread into prepared pan and bake until cake tests done, about 20 minutes.  Immediately turn onto a barely damp teatowel (cotton or linen, not terrycloth).  Carefully peel off parchment.  Roll from long side enclosing towel in roll.  Set aside to cool at room temperature.    DO AHEAD TIP:  Cake can be made ahead and refrigerated or frozen, rolled with towel and wrapped in plastic wrap  Allow to come to room temperature before unrolling and proceeding with recipe.

Day 2: Finish the cake.

Chocolate Buttercream:
2 OUNCES UNSWEETENED CHOCOLATE
1 OUNCE SEMI-SWEET CHOCOLATE
1/3 CUP SUGAR
1/4 CUP WATER
3 EGG YOLKS
1 CUP UNSALTED BUTTER, ROOM TEMPERATURE

Melt the chocolate.  Set aside to cool.  In a small saucepan, combine sugar and water.  Bring to a boil and boil for 2 minutes over medium heat.

Using an electric mixer, beat egg yolks briefly and then with machine running at medium speed, slowly add the hot sugar syrup.  Increase speed to high and continue beating for 5 minutes or so until mixture is thick and pale yellow.  Decrease speed to medium/low and add the softened butter, one small piece at a time, until buttercream is smooth.  Add room temperature melted chocolate and beat until smooth.

Chantilly Cream for filling:
1 CUP HEAVY WHIPPING CREAM, very cold
2 TBS. SUGAR
1 PACKET Dr. Oetker's WHIP IT (baking section of grocery store)
1-2 TBS. GRAND MARNIER or KAHLUA or 1 1/2 TSP. VANILLA (You choose your flavor!)

Whip the cream with the sugar, Whip It, and your choice of flavoring until firm.

Assembly:  Unroll cake and spread evenly with the whipped cream to within 1 inch of the edge of the cake.  Using the towel to help lift, beginning from the long edge, roll the cake into a log, ending with the seam side down.

Trimming the cake: Trim each end about one inch to make even.  Then, cut one end on the diagonal about 4" in from the end of the cake.  This will be your 'branch' to place on top of the log.  Cut the other end straight.  Place branch (the diagonal cut will be against the log) on top of rolled cake.

Spread with chocolate buttercream covering the branch joint. Spread buttercream over remaining cake.  If desired, you can ice the ends or leave them showing as the 'rings of the log'. Pull the tines of a fork along the log to emulate bark.  Refrigerate uncovered until icing is set, then cover gently with plastic wrap.

Presentation: Place on serving platter and garnish with Meringue Mushrooms (see the following post) and fresh greenery.

Photography credits:  Completed buche: Sam Froelich, Froelich Photography.  'How To' photos by Mary James.

Glazed Cipollini & Mushrooms

I have just finished the magazine article for O'Henry's Christmas issue where they featured some of my favorite Christmas recipes.  After what is usually a gargantuan spread at Thanksgiving, my family is saying 'Where's the beef?!"  But I am personally ready for the sides....

                                                                                    The Cipollini:

16 CIPOLLINI ONIONS, TRIMMED
WATER
2 TSP. OLIVE OIL
1 TSP. SUGAR
3/4 TEASPOON SALT

The Mushrooms:
1 TBS. OLIVE OIL
8 OZ. WHITE MUSHROOMS, QUARTERED
8 OZ. CREMINI or BABY BELLA MUSHROOMS, QUARTERED
3-4 TBS. RED WINE
SALT & GROUND BLACK PEPPER

In a small wide-bottomed saucepan, cover onions completely with water.  Add olive oil, sugar and salt.  Bring to a simmer and cook until onions are tender and water has evaporated.  If water evaporates before onions are tender, add a bit more water.  Once water has evaporated, continue cooking until onions are well browned and glazed.

In a separate skillet, heat olive oil and add mushrooms.  Saute until golden.  Deglaze with red wine and cook until wine is evaporated.  Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Add onions, toss, and serve.

Photo credits:  Sam Froelich, Froelich Photography

French Meringues

Foolproof and Versatile

Who doesn't like a big ole fluffy, crispy sugary meringue?  You can do whatever you want with these.  Drop with a spoon into blobs on a cookie sheet......pipe into elegant swans....or make mushrooms for a Buche de Noel cake....a Christmas Yule Log.

The French secret for this recipe is the powdered sugar and the method for making them.  No graininess or stickiness ... they are resistant to humidity ... they store beautifully in tightly closed tins.  You can even make them on a rainy day.

4 EGG WHITES, room temperature
PINCH OF SALT
2 TABLESPOONS plus 1/2 CUP GRANULATED SUGAR
3/4 CUP POWDERED SUGAR

Preheat the oven to 200F degrees.   Place the egg whites in a large mixing bowl with a pinch of salt and 1 tablespoon granulated sugar.  With an electric mixer, start at medium speed and beat for 2-3 minutes or until meringues are stiff.  Increase the speed to high and add 1 tablespoon more sugar.  When the egg whites are very stiff, add the remaining 1/2 cup granulated sugar and beat for 30 seconds longer.  By hand, gently fold the powdered sugar into the egg whites.

Using a pastry bag fitted with the #6 closed plain tip, pipe the meringues onto parchment-lined (or grease and heavily floured) baking sheets.  Or if shape does not matter, drop with a spoon. Place in preheated oven and bake for 2-2 1/2 hours, being careful not to let them brown.  Remove from oven and let cool.  Store in airtight tins.

To make mushrooms:  Pipe 2" rounds onto prepared sheet.  Wet your fingertip and gently tap tops to make smooth.   Pipe an equal number of stems  (do extras for insurance) by pulling straight up on the bag.   Don't smooth these.  Once baked and cooled, assemble mushrooms by taking the tip of a paring knife and carving a small hole in the base of the rounds.  Dot with melted chocolate chips and place stem.  Set aside for chocolate to harden.  Dust lightly with cocoa if desired.







OR for truly perfect mushrooms (and no stress!)
order these from
Lori's French Connection Bakery....

Lunch in Nancy...the good, the bad!

We begin by our usual walk perusing menus (no "this is the dish" photos), clientele (look for locals) and setups (neat, clean & chef not smoking out front!).

We choose La Gentilhommiere because menu is not too big, plus our favorite dishes are offered.  For him, it is Tete de Veau, and for me, it is Ris de Veau.

Our local aperitif arrives...Grés Rosé..with puff pastry twists & olives.  Simple, but a perfect start

My Ris de Veau with capers, brunoise vegetables and croutons was probably the BEST I have ever had. I have never thought of the caper/lemon juice finish for sweetbreads.  Work beautifully on these perfectly cooked sweetbreads.......Thennnnnn

Let's talk about the Tete de Veau....wrong wrong wrong.  I knew it as soon as they set it on the table.  And though he shared his comments only with me....here are just a few.  It was steamed when it should have been cooked for several hours with vegetables and seasoning...court bouillon....so no juice/sauce on plate...now check out those raw onion rings on the plate...& finally the sauce gribiche did not even come close....So, let's move to dessert...

My favorite French dessert, Iles Flottante.  Perfect Creme Anglaise with flecks of vanilla bean, tender meringue and delicious caramel (though I would have liked more).  Plus it was not stuffed in a parfait glass like so many restaurants are doing. Thennnnn.....

Here comes his Mirabelle Creme Brûlée....What's with the ICE CREAM....Heaven forbid!! Anyway, the creme brûlée was delicious by itself but the cherry ice cream totally hid the flavor of the mirabelle.  Don't think I have ever seen ice cream on crunchy creme brûlée


Bottom line....I loved and thoroughly enjoyed this restaurant and was dying to go back. I tried all during the 2 weeks we were there...to no avail.

But, I have to snicker about it.....for once, he was the chef who ordered wrong.....but who knew.

French Villages: TOURNUS

From time to time, I want to feature some of my favorite villages of France.  First up is TOURNUS, a village in Southern Burgundy just north of Lyon not far from Macon.  Why this one, you say?  Well, on our treks north to Lorraine and on to Belgium, this is always our first stop.  It is one of the few locations off the auto route where there are gas stations at the exit. Plus fuel is 10-11 centimes cheaper per liter than at the auto route service areas.  And as you will see, it is a beautiful place to take a break.  Let's go.

Street into the village  leads to the 11th century church  

St. Philibert.

Crypt (upper left) is one of the most beautiful I have seen.

Below:  the cloister

Our jaunt through the village always takes us past beautifully restored places....

..... and finally to a stop at the artisanal boucherie where we can purchase a hard to find Saucisse de Morteau, a smoked sausage not from this area but from the Franche-Comté region...

Great saucisses et saucissons but look at the nice Bresse chicken in the upper right photo (first one on the left)....

In the end, we find ourselves on the Saone River....time for lunch...

I know, I know....lunch looks kinda meager, but we still have a long drive ahead of us......However, we have usually made a stop at the patisserie during our walk .. no yummy desserts this day....it was exceptionally closed ....c'est dommage!

Apricots, Apricots, Apricots

We have one apricot tree on the property and for the past 3 years it has not given us any fruit....the weather worked against us.  Xavier even threatened to send this tree to tree heaven...I don't think he was really serious, but, nevertheless, I protested loudly.  It has such a beautiful shape that I didn't care if it gave us fruit.  Well, at least not until this year.  Oh my......I now call it the giving tree.  I think everyone of these blossoms survived to give us fruit.

As you can see, it even made the bees happy.

And then the fruit began to come....

The tree is loaded...

The fruit is ripening....

And then the work began....First..

APRICOT CONFITURE

1 KILO FRESH APRICOTS,  QUARTERED (or halved in small)

700 GRAMS SUGAR

JUICE OF ½ LEMON

In a large pot, combine apricots, and 1/2 cup water and 2 pinches salt.  Bring to a simmer.  Slowly cook down the apricots. They will melt down and skins will soften. This takes about 15-20 minutes.  Add sugar.  Increase heat to fast boil. Cook 20 minutes stirring occasionally but constantly near the end of the cooking time to prevent scorching. About 5 minutes before end, add juice of ½ lemon.   

Remove from heat.  Continue to stir to dissipate heat….about 3-4 minutes. Fill jars to top. Screw on lids.  If reusing old jars, invert jars for 10 minutes and then set upright until cool.

By the way, I stopped counting how many jars at 160!

And then next comes my favorite way to cook fresh fruit...a tatin.  I use the same pastry for any kind of fruit.....

APRICOT TART TATIN

PASTRY:

1 ¼ CUPS ALL PURPOSE FLOUR

½ TEASPOON SALT

6 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER, DICED

¼ CUP GROUND ALMONDS

2 TEASPOONS SUGAR

1 EGG YOLK

2-3 TABLESPOONS COLD WATER

CRÈME FRAICHE

Pastry:  In a medium bowl, combine flour and salt and rub in butter until the mixture resembles fine bread crumbs.  Stir in almonds and sugar, then work in the egg yolk and 2 TBS cold water to form a soft dough.  Add remaining water if dough is too firm.  Press into a disk, wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 425F.

Apricots:   Heat butter in a 9-10-inch skillet (preferably cast iron).  Stir in brown sugar and cook just to melt. Remove from heat and stand apricots up as seen in photo.

Finish by arranging a layer of apricot halves flat on top, skin side up. Return to heat and cook gently until apricots are caramelized and juices are reduced ....can take up to 30 minutes....

Finish: Remove pastry from refrigerator and roll out to a circle a little larger than the skillet.  Place over the apricots to cover them completely, pressing the edges up the sides of the pan.  Work fast to avoid the dough softening too much.

Transfer skillet to oven and bake until pastry is golden, about 20 minutes.  Remove and let rest for 5 minutes before inverting onto a serving platter large enough to contain the pan juices. 

Serve warm or cold….garnish with a dollop of crème fraiche.

Tips:  I usually do the tatins in stages....make the pastry...maybe even the day before, or better yet, always keep one in the freezer.  You can cook the fruit (do the caramelization part) early in the day and add pastry later and finish.  Just warm up the pan a bit before you add the pastry.

And we are not finished yet....There are still lots and lots of apricots. 

Next up is the apricot chutney.  I love to use this on toasts with the duck rillettes from Hyper U... ... oui, they are great from the jar with  this tangy topping.  And if you don't have duck rillettes, buy some barbecue....that would be North Carolina style barbecue.

APRICOT CHUTNEY

1500 GRAMS FRESH APRICOTS

250 GRAMS DRIED CRANBERRIES ( OR A COMBO OF RAISINS & DRIED CRANS)

3 MEDIUM ONIONS, CHOPPED

5 LARGE CLOVES GARLIC

¼ CUP FRESH GINGER, MINCED

2 TBS. TOMATO PASTE

2 CUPS DARK BROWN SUGAR

2 CUPS RAW SUGAR

1 TSP. SALT

2 CINNAMON STICKS

2 DRIED CHILIES

50 CL CIDER VINEGAR

 ....the ingredients

Pit apricots and cut into small pieces.  Combine with remaining ingredients in large heavy bottomed pot such as Le Creuset .  Bring to a simmer and cook gently for  about one hour.  Stir occasionally .  Toward the end of the cooking time, stir almost continuously to prevent burning.

Transfer to sterilized jars and seal.  Yields about 6 jars (1 ½ cup ….380 gms each)

Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of the finished product....and you can't tell anything from the jar.....

Now, did you think we were finished.....non, non, non

This is going to be an apricot aperitif.  Put the fruit in the jars with sugar and place them on their side in the sun.  Rotate several times a day for 3 days then add good quality grain alcohol....This is an experiment with the apricots....we always do it with cherries.

I haven't mentioned the apricot halves (rondeles) in syrup for winter tarts.....or the containers of coulis for sorbets.....or the stewed apricots.   

And the piece de resistance?????  You have to guess what I am going to do with these pits.  They have been washed, boiled and dried in the sun....What do you think?

And there are still apricots on the tree...got any ideas....???

ROQUEFORT CRISPBREAD

This is one of the quickest, easiest appetizers you can make.  I saw the original recipe on one of my favorite blogs, the Cowgirl Chef.  And she had adapted it from a recipe in Saveur that used feta instead of roquefort.....I have tried both and the roquefort is by far the best.  Ease of preparation comes from the fact that the crust is a batter, not a dough......

ROQUEFORT CRISPBREAD

Batter:

2 TBS. OLIVE OIL

2 TSP. VODKA*

1 EGG

1 CUP WATER

1 1/4 CUPS FLOUR

1/4 TSP. SALT 

1/8 TSP. BAKING POWDER

Final Prep:

2 TBS. OLIVE OIL

5 OZ. ROQUEFORT CHEESE, CRUMBLED

Preheat oven to 500F.  Place an 11x17 half sheet pan (it has sides) in preheated oven while preparing the batter...about 5 minutes.

In a medium bowl, whisk together olive oil, vodka, egg, and water.  In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and baking powder.  Pour the wet mixture over the dry and whisk until smooth.

Remove hot pan from oven and pour 2 TBS. olive oil over pan.  Using a heatproof silicone brush, spread quickly over bottom of pan. Add batter and evenly distribute across the bottom of the pan. Pan should still be hot enough that the mixture sizzles and begins to set immediately.   Sprinkle roquefort pieces over all. Return to oven for about 20 minutes (or a little less if using convection). 
 
Allow to cool slightly.  Cut with kitchen shears and serve.

MJ Dishes it out .....Notes:

• Can be frozen but reheats best if placed on hot pizza stone.
• Do Ahead Notes:  For entertaining, measure dry ingredients, set aside.  Measure wet ingredients into a jar and refrigerate until ready to use.  Complete recipe just before, or after, guests arrive.  
• I have done the recipe with blue cheese but the flavor was not as good and the cheese was not as 'melty'.  Might just need more if using the blue cheese.
• *If anyone has any idea what the vodka does for the batter, let me know.....I am always tempted to leave it out but then don't want to waste a good recipe if it doesn't work as well.