Xavier's Vinaigrette Revisited and Updated

Xavier and I welcome many people to Provence every year and absolutely every week we find ourselves explaining his vinaigrette and its' infinite number of variations.  Yes, it is in 'Mary James dishes it out', but there is so much more that I can say about it.  So here goes......

Base:
1 1/4 CUPS FRESH LEMON JUICE
2 TBS. DIJON MUSTARD
1/4 CUP RAW BLANCHED ALMOND BUTTER*(see note)

The base stores  in the freezer. I vary the size of the jars. 

2 1/2 CUPS OIL* (see note)
1 TBS. SALT
FRESHLY GROUND WHITE PEPPER 

Combine these ingredients and whisk to make an emulsion.

*The fact that the almonds are blanched i.e. no skin, makes a difference.  The almond butter should be almost white.  In fact, they call it Naked Almond Butter.  I order it online here.  Xavier also uses this same almond butter, instead of cream,  for thickening savory dishes.  

*For the oil, we use a combo usually.....sunflower seed oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil....Lately I have not used the grapeseed here in the USA as it is expensive and seems to have an almost rancid taste.  

Marinated Onions:
2 CUPS ONION, SMALL DICE

Place diced onions in a jar (yes, another jar).  Pour base on just  to cover and let stand for several hours before using to make vinaigrette.  Stores for 2 weeks refrigerated

VINAIGRETTE:
To make the finished vinaigrette, it depends on what he wants (his words, not mine....this is like hitting a moving target).  SO...ideally, you don't make up a batch ahead of time but rather mix it up in the bottom of the salad bowl that you are using.  For salad greens for 8-10 people, begin with about 1/4 cup base, add 3-4 TBS marinated onions, a splash of good red wine vinegar (see note below) and minced parsley.  Taste for acidity and seasoning and add more salt and pepper, or vinegar, or olive oil if needed.

Other things you could add:  minced garlic or chives or basil or pecans.....I have seen him add a diced hard boiled egg.  Possibilities are endless.  And you can also use the base just as it is.  Once you start using it, you'll get the hang of it.

Other uses for the marinated onions:

• Shred purple cabbage into a flat casserole.  Spoon marinated onions over the top...just here and there...don't cover completed...add some chopped parsley and gently stir around to evenly distribute onions.  Bake in a 325 oven until cabbage is just tender....long and slow ...45 minutes or so. 
• Shred 1 raw apple and 2 raw beets.....add marinated onions, a chopped hard-boiled egg, stir.  Serve room temp
• Xavier and MJ's stand-up 'no supper'.....a slice of baguette, a bit of your favorite cheese topped with marinated onions, maybe even a little piece of butter for overkill.......a glass of red wine.

A note about RED WINE VINEGAR:

It wasn't until I started making my own red wine vinegar that I felt like the vinaigrette was right.  I know many of you have seen the vinegar barrel at Xavier's and he is right....there is nothing like your own.  Such great flavor.

I purchased my 5 liter barrel and 'mother' online here.  I love using it. I love sharing it.  If you want to try it, give me a call or email me.

Don't want to go to this extent?  Then buy the best organic vinegar you can find, preferably one that you can see a bit of mother floating around.

FINALLY....this has to be more than you ever wanted to know about Xavier's Vinaigrette.....let us hear how you are using it.

Caramelized Garlic Goat Cheese Tart

This was a big hit with our Provence groups this 2013 season.  Go to the blog here for a better view.

I am giving you the recipe pretty much as it is in Yotam Ottolenghi's book "Plenty", but, of course, I have added some of my usual tips, hints, and observations.

 About the garlic:

•  the caramelized garlic keeps at least 10 days or so when sealed in a small jar  (love my jars)
•  or caramelized garlic can be done ahead and frozen, great to have on hand  
•  caramelized garlic is just sweet and unctuous, don't be afraid of the amount

Cleaning the garlic used to be the most time consuming thing about this recipe until I saw this video........IT WORKS like a charm.  You must try it.  Wish I had had this trick 6 months ago.  Thank you Saveur magazine...and to Undercurrent Restaurant for posting on FaceBook.  This works with the typical head of garlic we have here in the States but not on the fresh spring garlic of Provence.

About bought puff pastry: 

• Pepperidge Farm works. It  is less expensive than Dufour and double the amount.  Dufour is great but not necessary for this
• In France , the Hyper U Bio feuilleté is perfect....Xavier has a stroke when I don't make my own. #justnotnecessaryforthis.
• Works best when thawed slowly overnight in refrigerator
• Pastry can be blind baked ahead, covered and refrigerated until filled

You will see my changes in parentheses.....More balsamic because I love the flavor....savory instead of thyme because I think thyme overwhelms and savory is a close, milder cousin.....I buy the 2-pack of Montrachet at Costco (for my French friends, I buy fresh goat cheese at Hyper U)......I find hard goat cheese at EarthFare but, if not, just use Comte (yes, I know that is cow milk).  In France, I use a goat tomme

This looks like alot of explanation.....once you have made it the first time, you will get the picture and find it soooooo easy....otherwise I would not have been making this every week for the past 6 months!

CARAMELIZED GARLIC TART

From Plenty by Yotam Ottolenghi

13 OZ. PUFF PASTRY (375 g)

Roll pastry to line bottom and sides of a 28cm (9") tart pan with removeable bottom.  Cover with parchment, add pie weights or beans and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350.  Bake blind for 20 minutes.  Remove beans and paper and bake another 5 or 10 minutes or until pastry is golden. 

3 MEDIUM HEADS OF GARLIC, separated and peeled

Place peeled cloves of garlic in a small saucepan and cover generously with water.  Bring to a simmer and blanch for 3 minutes.  Drain well. Dry the saucepan.  This step is not necessary if you are using fresh spring garlic.

1 TBS. OLIVE OIL

1 TSP. BALSAMIC VINEGAR (I use 1 1/2 Tablespoons)

1 CUP WATER

2 TSP. SUGAR

1 TSP. FRESH ROSEMARY, CHOPPED (I use 1 1/2 tsp)

1 TSP. FRESH THYME, CHOPPED (I use a 3/4 tsp. dried savory)

¼ TSP. SALT (I use 1/2 tsp gray salt)

Add olive oil to saucepan.  Add garlic and saute until nicely browned. Stir around to prevent burning.

Add water and balsamic vinegar.  Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes.  Add sugar, herbs and salt. Continue simmering on medium heat for 10 minutes or so or until most of liquid has evaporated.  Garlic should be coated in a dark caramel syrup.  Set aside.

4 ¼ OZ. SOFT, CREAMY GOAT CHEESE (such as Montrachet)

4 ¼ OZ. HARD GOAT CHEESE 

2 EGGS

½ CUP (100ML) HEAVY CREAM

½ CUP (100ML) CRÈME FRAICHE

SALT AND BLACK PEPPER

ASSEMBLY: Crumble the soft goat cheese over the cooked pastry.  Top with grated hard goat cheese.   

Whisk together eggs, cream, and crème fraiche.   Season.  Pour over cheeses leaving room for the garlic.  Scatter garlic cloves over all.  Drizzle with any remaining syrup (there won't be much)

Bake in preheated 325 oven for 35-40 minutes or until set and golden.

Serves 8 as first course.

P.S.  Did you notice the squash blossom in the center of this tart.....Didn't really add any flavor but love the look....If you want to make Squash Blossom Beignets next summer, go here.

Courge de Muscade (French Pumpkin Soup)....Made in the USA

I have a feature in this month's O.Henry magazine. It is one one of my favorite soups and I want to elaborate more on its preparation and give you a head's up about the difference between the pumpkins that I use in France vs USA.  

Left: The French Courge de Muscade pumpkin  Right: My Greensboro pumpkin (back left)   Almost the same....but not quite.           

Don't let that stop you.  You just need to make a slight adjustment.  It is  a simple soup and oh so good.  

Now that I am back in the USA, I shopped our local markets for the pumpkins.  I struck out in the grocery stores but found what I wanted at the Yanceyville Street Farmer's Market or so I thought.  They were not sure of the variety but it looked close.  However, when the pumpkin was cooked, it released soooooo much water.  With this in mind, you need to change the recipe as it is written in O.Henry magazine.  Instead of the 10 cups of water, just add 4-5 cups and if you need to add more later, you can. 

Finished product....made in Greensboro. Ready 

for the truffle oil drizzle. 

The chanterelle des pins add alot but you can certainly substitute fresh shiitake....choose small ones and sauté briefly before adding to soup at the end.  

Now for the recipe......

3 ½ - 4 LBS. MUSCADE *

OLIVE OIL

1 ½ CUPS ONION, COARSELY CHOPPED

4 CLOVES GARLIC, TRIMMED

4 SMALL POTATOES, PEELED

½ TEASPOON SAVORY

NUTMEG

BAY LEAF and PARSLEY BOUQUET GARNI

½ CUP CREAM

SALT and FRESHLY GROUND PEPPER

CHANTERELLES des PINS, lightly sautéed in olive oil *

TRUFFLE OIL

Garnish:  Homemade CROUTONS

    or a few pieces of POPCORN that has been tossed with truffle oil.

Serves 6-8

Cut muscade into large chunks and peel.  Set aside.

In a large pot, sauté onion and garlic briefly in small amount olive oil.  Add muscade, potatoes, savory, nutmeg, bay leaf, and bouquet garni.  Add about 4-5 cups water.  (I have found the American pumpkin releases much more water so less is better to start and add more if needed later).  Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook gently until muscade is tender.  Remove bay leaf and bouquet garni. Using an immersion blender, puree until smooth.  Add cream. Season to taste with salt (don’t be shy, it needs alot) and pepper.  At this point, you can freeze or store. 

Just before serving, stir in chanterelles.  Serve hot garnished with croutons or popcorn and a drizzle of truffle oil.

Homemade Croutons:  Dice stale bread, baguette preferred, into petite squares.  Heat olive oil in skillet.  Add croutons.  Season with salt and freshly ground pepper and a bit of savory.   Toast,  stirring almost constantly until dry and crunchy.  Store in a tin or glass jar.

*USA SUBSTITUTIONS: 

For the muscade:  Hubbard Squash worked very well but not as fleshy so I purchased a 6 ¼ lb squash.  Great flavor and very similar to the muscade.  Be careful with the amount of water added.

For the chanterelles des pins:  Need a small mushroom that can be sliced thinly....small shiitakes work well...just need to saute a bit.   I have seen dried mushrooms at Whole Foods that appear to be like the chanterelles des pins. They would need to be reconstituted and also sauteed.

MENU SUGGESTIONS:   It is a ideal first course or use as part of a soup, sandwich salad menu.  See my Country Ham Past and Present blog for the perfect match. This soup freezes beautifully.

Some step by step photos....

And now just a bit of whimsy....photo taken in 2010 in the local market of Arlon, Belgium