French Villages: TOURNUS

From time to time, I want to feature some of my favorite villages of France.  First up is TOURNUS, a village in Southern Burgundy just north of Lyon not far from Macon.  Why this one, you say?  Well, on our treks north to Lorraine and on to Belgium, this is always our first stop.  It is one of the few locations off the auto route where there are gas stations at the exit. Plus fuel is 10-11 centimes cheaper per liter than at the auto route service areas.  And as you will see, it is a beautiful place to take a break.  Let's go.

Street into the village  leads to the 11th century church  

St. Philibert.

Crypt (upper left) is one of the most beautiful I have seen.

Below:  the cloister

Our jaunt through the village always takes us past beautifully restored places....

..... and finally to a stop at the artisanal boucherie where we can purchase a hard to find Saucisse de Morteau, a smoked sausage not from this area but from the Franche-Comté region...

Great saucisses et saucissons but look at the nice Bresse chicken in the upper right photo (first one on the left)....

In the end, we find ourselves on the Saone River....time for lunch...

I know, I know....lunch looks kinda meager, but we still have a long drive ahead of us......However, we have usually made a stop at the patisserie during our walk .. no yummy desserts this day....it was exceptionally closed ....c'est dommage!

Apricots, Apricots, Apricots

We have one apricot tree on the property and for the past 3 years it has not given us any fruit....the weather worked against us.  Xavier even threatened to send this tree to tree heaven...I don't think he was really serious, but, nevertheless, I protested loudly.  It has such a beautiful shape that I didn't care if it gave us fruit.  Well, at least not until this year.  Oh my......I now call it the giving tree.  I think everyone of these blossoms survived to give us fruit.

As you can see, it even made the bees happy.

And then the fruit began to come....

The tree is loaded...

The fruit is ripening....

And then the work began....First..

APRICOT CONFITURE

1 KILO FRESH APRICOTS,  QUARTERED (or halved in small)

700 GRAMS SUGAR

JUICE OF ½ LEMON

In a large pot, combine apricots, and 1/2 cup water and 2 pinches salt.  Bring to a simmer.  Slowly cook down the apricots. They will melt down and skins will soften. This takes about 15-20 minutes.  Add sugar.  Increase heat to fast boil. Cook 20 minutes stirring occasionally but constantly near the end of the cooking time to prevent scorching. About 5 minutes before end, add juice of ½ lemon.   

Remove from heat.  Continue to stir to dissipate heat….about 3-4 minutes. Fill jars to top. Screw on lids.  If reusing old jars, invert jars for 10 minutes and then set upright until cool.

By the way, I stopped counting how many jars at 160!

And then next comes my favorite way to cook fresh fruit...a tatin.  I use the same pastry for any kind of fruit.....

APRICOT TART TATIN

PASTRY:

1 ¼ CUPS ALL PURPOSE FLOUR

½ TEASPOON SALT

6 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER, DICED

¼ CUP GROUND ALMONDS

2 TEASPOONS SUGAR

1 EGG YOLK

2-3 TABLESPOONS COLD WATER

CRÈME FRAICHE

Pastry:  In a medium bowl, combine flour and salt and rub in butter until the mixture resembles fine bread crumbs.  Stir in almonds and sugar, then work in the egg yolk and 2 TBS cold water to form a soft dough.  Add remaining water if dough is too firm.  Press into a disk, wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 425F.

Apricots:   Heat butter in a 9-10-inch skillet (preferably cast iron).  Stir in brown sugar and cook just to melt. Remove from heat and stand apricots up as seen in photo.

Finish by arranging a layer of apricot halves flat on top, skin side up. Return to heat and cook gently until apricots are caramelized and juices are reduced ....can take up to 30 minutes....

Finish: Remove pastry from refrigerator and roll out to a circle a little larger than the skillet.  Place over the apricots to cover them completely, pressing the edges up the sides of the pan.  Work fast to avoid the dough softening too much.

Transfer skillet to oven and bake until pastry is golden, about 20 minutes.  Remove and let rest for 5 minutes before inverting onto a serving platter large enough to contain the pan juices. 

Serve warm or cold….garnish with a dollop of crème fraiche.

Tips:  I usually do the tatins in stages....make the pastry...maybe even the day before, or better yet, always keep one in the freezer.  You can cook the fruit (do the caramelization part) early in the day and add pastry later and finish.  Just warm up the pan a bit before you add the pastry.

And we are not finished yet....There are still lots and lots of apricots. 

Next up is the apricot chutney.  I love to use this on toasts with the duck rillettes from Hyper U... ... oui, they are great from the jar with  this tangy topping.  And if you don't have duck rillettes, buy some barbecue....that would be North Carolina style barbecue.

APRICOT CHUTNEY

1500 GRAMS FRESH APRICOTS

250 GRAMS DRIED CRANBERRIES ( OR A COMBO OF RAISINS & DRIED CRANS)

3 MEDIUM ONIONS, CHOPPED

5 LARGE CLOVES GARLIC

¼ CUP FRESH GINGER, MINCED

2 TBS. TOMATO PASTE

2 CUPS DARK BROWN SUGAR

2 CUPS RAW SUGAR

1 TSP. SALT

2 CINNAMON STICKS

2 DRIED CHILIES

50 CL CIDER VINEGAR

 ....the ingredients

Pit apricots and cut into small pieces.  Combine with remaining ingredients in large heavy bottomed pot such as Le Creuset .  Bring to a simmer and cook gently for  about one hour.  Stir occasionally .  Toward the end of the cooking time, stir almost continuously to prevent burning.

Transfer to sterilized jars and seal.  Yields about 6 jars (1 ½ cup ….380 gms each)

Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of the finished product....and you can't tell anything from the jar.....

Now, did you think we were finished.....non, non, non

This is going to be an apricot aperitif.  Put the fruit in the jars with sugar and place them on their side in the sun.  Rotate several times a day for 3 days then add good quality grain alcohol....This is an experiment with the apricots....we always do it with cherries.

I haven't mentioned the apricot halves (rondeles) in syrup for winter tarts.....or the containers of coulis for sorbets.....or the stewed apricots.   

And the piece de resistance?????  You have to guess what I am going to do with these pits.  They have been washed, boiled and dried in the sun....What do you think?

And there are still apricots on the tree...got any ideas....???

ROQUEFORT CRISPBREAD

This is one of the quickest, easiest appetizers you can make.  I saw the original recipe on one of my favorite blogs, the Cowgirl Chef.  And she had adapted it from a recipe in Saveur that used feta instead of roquefort.....I have tried both and the roquefort is by far the best.  Ease of preparation comes from the fact that the crust is a batter, not a dough......

ROQUEFORT CRISPBREAD

Batter:

2 TBS. OLIVE OIL

2 TSP. VODKA*

1 EGG

1 CUP WATER

1 1/4 CUPS FLOUR

1/4 TSP. SALT 

1/8 TSP. BAKING POWDER

Final Prep:

2 TBS. OLIVE OIL

5 OZ. ROQUEFORT CHEESE, CRUMBLED

Preheat oven to 500F.  Place an 11x17 half sheet pan (it has sides) in preheated oven while preparing the batter...about 5 minutes.

In a medium bowl, whisk together olive oil, vodka, egg, and water.  In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and baking powder.  Pour the wet mixture over the dry and whisk until smooth.

Remove hot pan from oven and pour 2 TBS. olive oil over pan.  Using a heatproof silicone brush, spread quickly over bottom of pan. Add batter and evenly distribute across the bottom of the pan. Pan should still be hot enough that the mixture sizzles and begins to set immediately.   Sprinkle roquefort pieces over all. Return to oven for about 20 minutes (or a little less if using convection). 
 
Allow to cool slightly.  Cut with kitchen shears and serve.

MJ Dishes it out .....Notes:

• Can be frozen but reheats best if placed on hot pizza stone.
• Do Ahead Notes:  For entertaining, measure dry ingredients, set aside.  Measure wet ingredients into a jar and refrigerate until ready to use.  Complete recipe just before, or after, guests arrive.  
• I have done the recipe with blue cheese but the flavor was not as good and the cheese was not as 'melty'.  Might just need more if using the blue cheese.
• *If anyone has any idea what the vodka does for the batter, let me know.....I am always tempted to leave it out but then don't want to waste a good recipe if it doesn't work as well. 

The CAMARGUE and SETE....

There is nothing like a French Road Trip.....especially when you don't know where you are going to end up......having absolutely no plans. Well, this is where we were. We started out on very familiar road where we have taken many a group but quickly after a couple of hours, we were in the back country of southern France. We traveled on our whims....saw a sign....interested...ok.....wanna go there....yeh.......and we were off. First? I saw the sign for Salin de Giraud and immediately knew that I needed to see SALT! OK. Quick exit and we were on our way.

THERE!  Looming in front of us was salt, salt, salt.

Trucks moving in all directions.....

and then there is a conveyer belt moving the salt from one side of the road to the other ......What happens when it rains?????  X says the salt is very coarse and it just washes/cleans it.....looks like to me that it would melt!

Seems a bit primitive.....it is a huge operation so I don't think I call it artisanal.....This operation would never fly in the US of A!

But thank goodness, I have my salt....the Fleur de Sel AND the Sel de Gris......I guess you could call me a salt snob.....

 

NEXT??? We passed field after field (should it be paddy after paddy) of rice. Harvest had already taken place so we saw the 'rice straw' and then lots of smoke where they were burning the field of rice straw.

Yes, we were in the Camargue.......

 Home of the 'Original Cowboy'

and where 'les taureaux' rule....the bulls are raised for meat as well as for the bull fights. Then there are also flamingos, wild horses, and, in some seasons, lots of mosquitoes.

You can't come to the Camargue without going to.....

...the story is that the three biblical Marys (Maries) arrived here from Palestine along with Sara, who became the patron saint of the gypsies.  And since medieval times, Saintes Maries de la Mer is the site of an annual  Roma (gypsy) pilgrimage.

Houses of the Camargue use a local resource.....the canes that are everywhere are the roofing material for their homes. Note the leaning cross at the peak of the roof. It is on all the houses.

Then it is a quick stop in ...

Aigues Mortes....

a walled village dating to 10th century AD and also a safe haven for Protestants in the 16th century.

The day is winding down and we make our way along the coast to

 Sete
'the little Venice of the Languedoc"

Canals and fishing boats abound.....though it is one of the major fishing ports of France, it has kept its local character and quaintness.

Sun is setting...time for an aperitif.....

Picturesque spot!......fishing boats coming in with their catch.....

Now time to make a restaurant choice....we do our usual walk...peeking in and out of places...looking at posted menus....then we narrow it down.....not surprisingly, we both thought there were 2 choices.  One seemed to be a husband and wife team...not too big a menu.  But, the other, had lots of fresh seafood for sale (which had obviously just come off the boats) plus the restaurant..........a crowd was also gathering for dinner.... Chez Francois it will be...

I started with 'jols', a tiny fish done 'friture' style.  It is one of my favorite things.  Xavier had the 'couteux' (razor clams).  Both outstanding!

  As if that was not enough, we move on to the entree....
whole fish for X, and a combo of gambas (large shrimp), seche (kinda like calamari) and lotte (monkfish) for MJ.

Could not begin to finish.....would kill for it today....so perfectly grilled.

Up early the next morning......stay tuned for Part 2.....the Aubrac!

CHEESE STRAWS......a Southern Delicacy!

I am amazed how people in other parts of the country have no idea what a cheese straw is.  Ask around and see what you find out. Ya'll, it IS a 'Southern Thing'.....especially making your own!

I had planned to blog about cheese straws at some point but am hastened along by my friend, Nathalie Dupree.  Today she posted her cheese straw making video on Facebook and I shared with her my method.  Instead of a cookie press, I use my Simac Pasta Machine....It was a must have piece of equipment for me years ago and I did indeed use it to make pasta....but not any more.  This machine is now most valuable to me for making cheese straws.  You can generate hundreds in no time. Don't have a pasta machine....check out EBay.

Here is my recipe....works great in the machine.

CHEESE STRAWS

1 LB. EXTRA-SHARP CHEESE, grated

1 1/3 CUPS BUTTER, room temperature

2 TSP. TABASCO

4 SCANT CUPS FLOUR

1 TSP. PAPRIKA

1 1/2 TSP. SALT

1/2 TSP. CAYENNE or to taste

Using an electric mixer, combine cheese, butter and Tabasco.  Combine dry ingredients and then add to cheese mixture.  Mix until well blended.  Do NOT refrigerate.

Transfer to cookie press fitted with star pattern.  OR to Simac Pasta Machine (in batches) fitted with disk that has 2 straight ridged openings (see photo).  Extrude and cut into desired lengths.  Place on parchment lined baking sheets.  Straws can be placed close together since they do not spread. .

Bake in preheated 400 degree oven for 15-20 minutes.  They should have a slight color change.  Cool completely before storing.  Store in tins.  

TIPS and VARIATIONS:  You should grate your own cheese because grated cheese has an anti-caking agent on it.  Also, I like to use Kraft Cracker Barrel Extra Sharp cheddar in the red foil package.  

Add 1-2 tsp. Dijon mustard (like Nathalie)   OR leave out the paprika and add 1 1/2 tsp. curry powder.  

FIGS, FIGS, FIGS

So what is it about figs that has everybody atwitter....Before I left the United States this month, I had a phone call from my son in Atlanta....his fig crop was exceptional....exceptionally prolific!  And then, I was facebooking with my friend, Dorette Snover of C'est si Bon in Chapel Hill.  She, too, was covered up with figs.  Now I am in Provence and I am greeted by tubs of figs.  Nous crulons sous les figues! Perhaps the excitement is because it is one of the few truly seasonal fruits.  We know we won't have them any other time of the year plus we really don't see that many in the grocery stores.....they are a farmer's market purchase or a tree in your back yard. 

So Dorette and I decided to both blog about our figs this week. See her at www.plantingcabbages.com

 

The plump, purple variety shown here is Soliès-Pont, named for a village here in the Departement du Var.  Sollies Pont is also home of the Fete de la Figue, an August festival that celebrates this ancient fruit.  This is the fig that I have come to know and love.  In the American South, it is mostly the small brown turkey fig.....to me, a different fruit that is good in its own way, but nothing like the purple fig of Provence. 

So what is a girl to do with so many figs.....Well, you might see me sneaking out the back door where just steps away I can feast to my heart's content.  But Xavier might have other ideas....there are jars of fig confiture dancing in his head.....and I mean lots of jars.  So far this year, the count is 220!  Read on for recipes and lots of uses for everything fig......Then don't miss the end......where there is No Fig Leaf for Apollo!

So here is Xavier's recipe for the most popular confiture we put on the table for our groups.  It is divine on a croissant or in your breakfast yogurt.

But not just for breakfast, we make a Shallot Fig  Confit to use with Pan Seared Magrets (duck breasts) or MJ will use it as a topping for the Duck Rillettes on Crostinis at cocktail hour.  To make the confit: carmelize shallots, deglaze with a light red wine vinegar and add some fig confiture. Reduce. Season with salt. Taste for sweet/sour balance & adjust. If you have no duck rillettes, then use shredded barbecue.

FIG CONFITURE

1 KILO (2.2 lbs) FRESH PURPLE FIGS,  QUARTERED (or halved in small)

1 HEAPING TBS. ZEST DE CITRON CONFIT (below)

700 GRAMS RAW SUGAR (1 1/2 lbs)*

JUICE OF ½ LEMON

  (Photo is 7-8 kilos)

In a large pot, combine figs, citron confit, and 1/2 cup water and 2 pinches salt.  Bring to a simmer.  Slowly cook down the figs. Stir often. They will melt down and skins will soften. This takes about 15-20 minutes.  Add sugar.  Increase heat to fast boil. Cook 15-20 minutes stirring constantly. About 5 minutes before end, add juice of ½ lemon. Reduce heat.  

Remove from heat.  Continue to stir to dissipate heat….about 3-4 minutes. Fill jars to top.  If reusing old jars, invert jars while cooling.  Lids will reseal.

NOTES: When going from sweet and more pulpy fruit such as pears, figs, apricots to more acidic watery fruits such as strawberry, raspberry, you add more sugar to the latter (750-800 gms per kilo) 

 

Short fast cooking time after sugar is added will give you the best flavor.  Long cooking time destroys the color and flavor.

*Raw sugar is the free flowing sugar that is less processed than white sugar.  I buy the Florida Crystals that comes in a plastic jug.  It is not turbinado sugar....too coarse.

Now for the 'piece de resistance' of the Fig Confiture. ....

ZESTES DE CITRON CONFITS

 

10 LEMONS (to yield 1 ½ cups zest weighing .140 kg [5 oz])

1 ½ CUPS RAW SUGAR

Peel lemons and julienne into ‘needle’ size pieces …tiny width and about ½ inch long. In 2-quart saucepan, cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, Blanch, strain and rinse.  Return to pan and just cover with water  (there should be enough so that the zest floats).  Add the juice of 1 ½ lemons and pinch of salt.  Simmer very slowly for 20 minutes.  Water will be almost gone. Add juice from other half of lemon then level with 1 1/2 cups raw sugar.  Cook very SLOWLY for 15-20 minutes.  Add about 2 tablespoons more water if zest is not tender at this time*.  Do this several times…..the color becomes somewhat brownish.  The syrup is obviously thicker and the zest is very transparent and crystalline-like.  It is done when color of zest is correct…..cooked, tender and transparent.

If the lemon peel is tough, it is because it was not cooked enough with the water.

*TIP: If you cook the zest with the sugar too long, the sugar could caramelize, therefore you need to add more water to prevent caramelization.

NOTE:  You can collect your zest over a period of time (freeze it).  As fig season approaches, every time a lemon is used, the zest is removed first, julienned, and put in a small jar in the freezer until there is enough to make the confit.  Did someone say this is labor intensive?  Great for honing your knife skills too.  

I might also call it 'heaven on a spoon'....

For the gardener....

Xavier is very much the gardener and has the patience of a saint (for some things!).  So at the end of last summer, I saw him collecting soil on a plastic bag.  What's up?  He walked over to the tree and wrapped the bag around the limb surrounding a joint with the soil....winter came, spring came, summer came. Then I am in the States for 4 weeks only and he goes to the next step without me.  Cut the branch, removed the plastic....Voila, lots of roots.....potted it for his brother.  And not one damn photo!! I WILL take a picture the next time we go to his brother's!

This just speaks to the fact that fig trees are hardy, fairly easy to propagate. We see so many in the villages growing from tiny cracks in stone walls and fortifications ...seeds left there by a petite oiseaux (bird)....

If you are indeed interested in all the different varieties of figs, check out this website.  It is an excellent source of information about all things fig!

Fig Leaves are very helpful when building a simple food tray
 .

and finally, from Nice Matin, we unravel why there is

No Fig Leaf for Apollo!

 This larger than life statue in Nice has generated much controversy. It was banned in the 70's from its prominent position on Place Massena because some people were offended by his endowment.  In June of this year, it was re-erected on Place Massena sans fig leaf in the location where it was originally intended.

Click here to read the complete story and see Apollo's final resting place. 

Don't forget to visit Dorette's blog!